The West Bank: Travel Guide
February 4, 2023
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The cultural heritage of the Palestinian people is one of the richest in the world. It is a reflection of the diverse societies that have existed in the region over the centuries, from the Canaanites and Phoenicians to the Arabs and Ottomans.
If you are thinking of visiting the West Bank, there are a few things you should know. This article will provide you with some practical advice on what to expect when you travel to the West Bank.
IS BETHLEHEM PART OF ISRAEL OR PALESTINE?
The conflict between Israel and Palestine has been evident for a century, and so the control of Bethlehem was in Israel’s hands for some time. Since 1995, however, Bethlehem has been governed by the Palestinian National Authority.
Arriving in Bethlehem
To get to Bethlehem we took the 231 bus from Jerusalem.
You will have to pay in cash on the bus, one journey costs 5.5 NIS, the same as any other bus ride in Israel.
We were surprised to see that going into The West Bank there was no actual border crossing, no passport control, just a regular bus journey from point A to point B.
We got off the bus at Bab El-Zakak/Beit Jala Road and we were immediately surrounded by taxi drivers trying to convince us to take a tour with them to see all the main attractions. They did make us feel uncomfortable following us around, telling us different prices even when we repeatedly refused.
If you don’t plan on taking a taxi tour it’s best you just walk away and don’t engage in any kind of conversation, even if it’s just to politely refuse. If you are thinking of getting a taxi the asking price for the tour is between 75 NIS – 150 NIS per person, which is not expensive, but we wanted to do it on our own.
The first thing we noticed when we arrived in Palestine is that it does feel like the Middle East as opposed to Israel which feels more westernised.
The Church of Nativity
From the bus station, it’s just a short 10-minute walk to the centre of Bethlehem and a 15-minute walk to The Church of Nativity.
The Church of the Nativity is a basilica located in Bethlehem, on the West Bank. It is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012. It is the first World Heritage Site listed under Palestine and is also on UNESCO’s List of World Heritage in Danger. The church was originally built in 327 AD and has been rebuilt and renovated several times over the centuries.
The Church of the Nativity is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the West Bank and is a significant pilgrimage site for Christians from all over the world. Every year, thousands of people visit the church to see its beautiful mosaics, paintings, and architectural features. If you’re ever in the area, be sure to check it out!
The Separation Wall
The Separation Wall was put up in 2002 by Israel following the Bethlehem Siege. The wall will span over 771 km (479 mi) upon completion of which Israel has completed about 500 km (300 mi).
The UN declared the wall illegal as it is a violation of international law and human rights.
When we first saw the wall, a variety of emotions – including sadness, rage, hope, and humility – flooded us.
Parts of the wall were placed through the middle of the street so that while we were walking on the Palestinian side in complete silence, we could hear the buzz of everyday life happening on the Israeli side.
The barrier affects Palestinians in a variety of ways, limiting their freedoms, reducing the number of IDF (Israel Defense Forces) checkpoints and road closures, losing land, making it more difficult for them to access Israeli medical and educational services, limiting their access to water sources, and having an economic impact.
By visiting the wall, you can examine many facets of the Israeli-Palestinian narratives and conflict.
The Separation Wall Art
Due to the wall’s size and what it stands for (oppression and segregation), famous graffiti artists in addition to Palestinian artists and locals use it as a canvas. Among the well-known artists whose works are displayed on the wall are Banksy, Lush Sux, Cake$ Stencils, and the Secret Society of Super Villain Artists.
How to get to the Separation Wall
The easiest way to get to the wall is to search for The Walled Off Hotel which is pretty easy to spot due to its whimsical aesthetic.
Other attractions in Bethlehem:
- Milk Grotto Church
- Church of Shepherds Field
- Palestinian Heritage Center
Leaving Bethlehem
The process of leaving Bethlehem is very different from entering it.
This time, a checkpoint will be required whether you choose to exit Bethlehem on foot, by car, or by bus. We had to queue for about an hour until we were able to enter back into Jerusalem.
Safety
People need to understand that the security concerns in the West Bank are related to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, which could flare up at any time.
Palestinians prioritise generosity and hospitality, which is consistent with Arab culture in general.
Having said that, we had no sense of danger or unease while there. However, due to the ongoing tensions, we advise you to exercise extra caution when visiting both Palestine and Israel.
Safety tips:
- be vigilant
- exercise caution
- avoid any demonstrations or large gatherings
- follow instructions of local authorities
- monitor the media for the latest updates
Where to stay:
Budget – Bethlehem City Hostel – located in the centre of Bethlehem
Medium – The Walled Off Hotel – The hotel was financed by Banksy in 2017, with every room facing and offering a view of the wall. It has also been decorated by Banksy and several other artists, making it a unique stay.
High – Shepherd Hotel – located just 10 minutes away from The Church of Nativity
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Full-time software engineer, part-time traveller. I am the annoying person who slows you down because she saw a stray cat that “needed” attention.
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